Vol. 1 #21
November 17, 2000
 
WATER GARDEN WINTERIZING

    This column is a little late unless you have not begun your water garden winterizing.  If you haven't started, then you're running late.  The primary concerns of winterizing your pond are ceasing the feeding of the fish, protecting your water from debris such as leaves, keeping the surface from completely icing over, and maintaining your submergible pump.

    Feeding the fish is needed for two reasons.  The first reason is to keep the fish from eating all of your water plants and the second reason is to entertain yourself.  Fish gotta eat!  The greatest error is overfeeding the fish with the residual fish food providing large amounts of nutrients for the bothersome algae growth.  In the fall, as the water temperature falls, the metabolism of the fish diminishes.  Everything SLOOOOOWS DOOOOOWN!  The fish cannot digest normal summer fish foods when the water temperature dips below 50 degrees.  There are some Spring/Autumn fish food formulations which can be digested down to 42 degrees water temperature.  There is a risk of intestinal infection from food which has been eaten, but not digested.  The bottom line is "Stop feeding your fish for the winter!"

    Leaves and twigs are a great source of debris for water gardens.  Inexpensive plastic netting is available to cover the surface of your pond and catch the falling debris of fall.  If you have let leaves and twigs fall into your pond, gently remove them with a net to prevent the negative aspects of their decay in your pond.  Consider purchasing some netting to prevent further leaf accumulation in your pond.

    In Fredericksburg, the minimum depth needed to prevent a complete freeze of your pond is 18 inches.  The cold water will not bother your fish, but the surface cannot be allowed to freeze over completely.  Such a freeze will result in the buildup of toxic methane gases under the surface of the ice.  A ball or a stick in your pond can help bread the surface tension of the water, making freezing a lesser probability.  Continued running water is even better, so don't pull the plug on your waterfalls or fountains.  A heater is best for unpredictable arctic spells, but make sure you're heater is safe for plastic or rubber, lest you melt a hole in the side of your pond. You do not need to head the water or keep the entire surface ice free.  Simply make sure you maintain an ice free area of any size.

    In the event that your pond completely freezes over, DO NOT break the ice.  The shock waves can kill your fish.  The best method would be to place a pot of hot water on the surface to melt through the ice (you may have to keep changing the water to get the job done).  This is a gentle method which avoids shock wave damage.

    With regard to the care of your pump, simply leave it running all winter.  Most of the pumps which fail to work in the spring are those which have not been running during the winter.  That's about all there is to maintaining your pump.  See you next time.

Andy Lynn